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Ok. I will give it some time. I will probably plant 50 to 100 more each year for a few more years then reevaluate.

@bill-winke I think that is wise. Wet sights in full sun are by far the best sites to plant ROD. By the 3rd or 4th growing season they must have enough root system to really take off and overcome the browsing. Where mine have done the best are really wet and full sun. Best wishes!

Justin, I bought them from a fellow in southeast Iowa that collects them to sell. There are a couple of people in Iowa that do that, at least that I have come across. Likely, there are others. Each state surely has a few that do it for a side business. You can do it yourself too, if you have the time. You need a "nut roller" and a place with closely mown ground that has a lot of oak trees (golf course, school, city park, state park, someone's lawn, etc.). I found this fellow by calling around to the state and independent foresters in Iowa asking them if they collect and sell and if not, do they know of anyone who does. That is the easiest route. You want to buy them from trees as near to the area you are seeding as possible so the seeds have been habituated to the climate there through decades of selection. Good luck.

You can do that. I have done that. The fence is kind of expensive. Can't remember the cost, but it is completely reusable so that makes it easier in the future. It is a lot of work to put up, maintain and then take down and put back in storage. But it definitely works.

Thanks for the comment and the kind words. I appreciate it. Have a great day.

Thanks Chris. When did you plant the rye? I would want that up and growing before the beans come out of the ground or the deer and turkeys will still hammer the beans. Have a great day.

@@bill-winke we broadcast the rye last fall then drilled the beans into them

Yes, among other things, I am sure. I don't know all the chemicals these can tolerate since I got a wide range of beans from the organizations where I could find them for free, but I am sure they are all at least RoundUp Ready. Have a great day.

In both situations the weeds and grasses serve a purpose for at least part of the annual cycle. I do think they bare root stock trees and shrubs would grow faster if I removed the grasses, but then the deer would definitely hammer them. I will take a slower growth rate and a higher survival rate. Have a great day.

I think the deer would stay away for a few days but once they saw it their long enough they would accept it. My friend and wildlife artist Larry Zach believed that if a person could stand still long enough, he could stand right in the middle of clover patch and eventually the deer would ignore him and feed in the patch. I think that would take a few days! And, if you were wonder, I am not going to be the one to test Larry's theory! Have a great day.

If your deer density is not high, it will be OK. Also, the nice thing about beans is that you can spread brassicas (I like the Whitetail Institute Winter-Greens blend) into the beans in late July and have a second crop in there, whether or not the beans do well. Good luck.

He has killed a couple, one each in the past two seasons.

@@bill-winke ha! im sure you had doubts when showing him spots and techniques.

Possibly, yes. They make PTO driven cone spreaders that would possibly work. I haven't used one in the past because I often get my white oak acorns and they already have the small tap root coming out. If you break that off, the acorn is much less likely to produce. For that reason I have always chosen to hand spread, but if the acorns don't have any small roots coming out of them, the spreader should work well. Good luck.

So far so good. I did have the gly resistant weeds in southern Iowa, but not here yet. I think the fat that so many farmers plant corn on corn is part of the reason. They can easily kill that stuff with herbicides that don't hurt corn. If I run into it here, I will try either crop rotation (to go corn/beans so I can kill it off) or I will just have to use the herbicide labeled for the beans to remove the weeds (such as Enlist for that hybrid). Good question.

Thanks for the comment Robert. Much appreciated.

You can always rescue with brassicas in late July. That is what I like about beans. It is pretty easy to rescue them if they fail. Good luck.

Donald, what are they called? Thanks.

@@bill-winke I'm not sure my brother-in-law buys all the stuff for the farm

@@bill-winke called real world gen2 beans from real world wildlife products

Thanks for the comment Steve. Much appreciated.

That does make sense and I will definitely do that. I have seen similar results from spreading a brassica blend in the summer into the beans. The next summer, there is still a carryover of the brassicas and that results in a lot of organic matter for the field. I disked mine under this spring, but I may drill right into that next spring and and see what happens. Have a great day.

If you have pigweed you prolly have a magnesium and calcium deficiency.

Nate, I suppose you could hit the pigweed and water hemp about ten days before planting the beans with 2,4-D and wipe that out allowing time for the residual to wear off before you plant the beans. Then, at least in theory, you would still have the grass there to protect your beans as they start to grow and then you could wipe them out later more easily. Good luck.

@@bill-winke I normally completely work the ground up so there's nothing there to spray prior to planting the beans. Since I only put in an acre and a half or so I'm not sure I could ever justify a no-till drill to plant into weeds. I have used Liberty beans which will smoke water hemp and pigweed but this year I have Enlist beans. I will be putting 24D on beans for the first time this year. I don't think we have such a ridiculous deer population here though and I don't really understand why. I'm 7 mi south of Don Higgins on the same Creek drain. I've heard him talk about the same lack of deer numbers as well. For me it's hard to comprehend all these huge doe #s.

Stanley, you always say that but you don't offer any good options. How are you doing it on your farm?

I appreciate the comment. I hope you have a great day and good luck.

I am just using glyphosate but so far I don't have any tolerant weeds here. Eventually that may change and I will have to use other options.

We currently have RU tolerant weeds that is why I was asking. Thanks. Bob

We also have tolerant weeds so I use glyphosate and 24D on the beans as long as they are enlist and Ru ready does a good job as long as not to late thanks Bill good 👍 video topic

I think it would be OK. I just let the naturally growing weeds be my nurse crop. I am not sure if the oats/rye would get growing quickly enough to be of benefit. The weeds need to already be started in order to be tall enough to hide the beans when they pop out.

Thanks Edward. You too.

Thanks Nelson. I sure hope it rains for you there very soon. Watching the national weather maps it sure looked like the rains were hitting everywhere. You are in an unfortunate spot this year, that is for sure. Here's to hoping that changes soon. Have a great day.

The drill is an eight footer and the tractor is 85 hp. I think you could get by with a lower horsepower with this drill size, but you will likely need front weights or put something in the loader bucket to keep the front of the tractor down when going up hills.

@@bill-winke thanks

It takes almost no pressure to turn that wheel, plus it is spring loaded so it does create a bit of down pressure that helps to create the engagement needed between the teeth on the wheel and the ground to keep it turning.

@@bill-winke Thank you!

I ended up at around 8 pounds per acre. My target was 10 but by the time I realized I was planting a little light I was close to done. I have planted as much as 12 pounds per acre with a corn planter using sorghum plates, but all the experts seem to agree that 10 pounds is the best for productivity.

@@bill-winke Thank you sir love the content cant wait for the next episode

I will do a video on that next. Yes, I planted about 2 1/2 acres of sorghum this year.

I wait for the beans to get established and then spray to clean up the weeds. I like to wait so the beans stay hidden in the weeds until they can handle the deer browsing.

@@bill-winke thank you very much. What do you do with clover, wheat grasses, and brassicas?

Thanks and same to you. I appreciate the contact. Have a great day.

Good deal. Those turkeys will hammer them once they pop out of the ground too. That can be the worst time for the beans, when it is just the seed coming up out of the ground. If a turkey nips it off then, the plant won't grow. The growing point is above the ground with soybean and if nipped off too soon, it will die.

Boy I sure hope you get the rain. That will be a nice mix of food plot crops. Good luck with the rain.

Nate that is all good information. I sure notice here that the deer love beans as soon as they pop out (and at all times after - but when they are small they are particularly vulnerable). I have also noticed that some of my free seed didn't do nearly as well as the stuff I bought making me think that those poor performers may have been in storage somewhere for a really long time or possibly in an environment (too moist) that killed some of the seed. Your advice on testing germination is very good on the stuff you are unsure about. Have a great day.

You have to just call around, especially late in the planting season. When the seed sits past the original planting season for which it was bagged, the seed dealers often can't sell it because the germination rate will drop below their allowable amount by the next planting season. That is what are looking for. Good luck.

Sometimes it isn't possible to get the job done the way you want so you have to be a little more creative. Good luck.

If you're in an ag area and you have a local co-op they will have extra seed. They told me they put it in a spreader and they just spread it on fields to get rid of it. Basically beans come in mini bulk (huge bags) these days so you may need your own containers. Test plot beans probably still come in 50 lb bags though. A couple cases of beer takes me all the way and the guys are happy there. You can also store beans or corn for a year or so if you do it in climate control. That way you can plant early next year if you want instead of having to wait until this late.

Nate got it right. I would call three or four people each spring that I know are pretty well connected in the area and ask them if they know of any seed dealers looking to get rid of seed. That is how I find it. Sometimes you get seed that is a year or more old. That is the stuff you have watch as Nate mentioned. Good luck.

When I first started planting beans I would disc the ground and then plant both directions with my 2 row AC planter. Four years ago I purchase a 3 pt. tiller and started tilling, broadcasting and harrowing the beans in. This year since I was planting into horribly dry sandy ground I decided I better get the beans in the ground so I went back to using the planter which is on 30-in rows. The ground was loose enough I felt like I could move over 15" and run the last row over without packing the ground too tight. My beans were 3 years old but they sprouted good in a glass in the window so we'll see how this works. Everyone talks about paying big money for food plot seed but I also get mine from the local co-op after planting season is over. The guys normally say just bring them the case of beer but I normally get two cases. Cheap at twice the price😅

Travis, that sounds like a great mix. I like to plant just beans so I can manage the weeds a bit better and then if they fail for whatever reason (drought and/or deer damage), I can rescue them in late July by broadcasting (or even drilling) brassicas (I like the Whitetail Institute Winter-Greens blend) into them. That has worked well for me over the years. Good luck and have a great day.

Thanks for the comment and support. Much appreciated.

Every market is a bit different, I am sure, but I think it also depends on what you are cutting and how good the timber value is. If high value (quality oak and walnut) you should expect a better split going your way. Good luck.

Not yet but that is on my list. I have a good source for seeds so I think I will do it that way. I still have a lot to learn about chestnut planting and growing but I plan to start this fall.

There's an icon next to the name of the map area on the app or top right corner on website. That gives you all options for background layers that you can choose from. I like the Mapbox Satellite background layer myself. Have a great day.

I heard it too and after I closed the episode I called around to see if I could get a napalm strike on that hillside.

Omg HAHA! I am torn from this episode. Chipmunks are my favorite animal. I've even owned 3 as pets. I definitely can understand the fustration they must be causing you though. Feel free to send all your chipmunks up north with carsen for me if he is ever back down there. He is a friend of mine

I will definitely put to the test this year as we planted 600 pumpkins on the edges of three food plots. Will be interesting to see how the deer react to that much.

Thanks for the comment Pastor Hart. I am between 6.25 and 6.5 grains per pound of maximum draw force. For my longer draw length (currently 31.5 and shrinking!) that is a good weight for whitetail hunting. If you draw under 30 inches a weight around 6.0 grains per pound is a good compromise between speed and bow noise/penetration. Have a great day. God bless you too.

@@bill-winke thanks bill and keep up the good job with wisdom sharing concerning the whitetail deer… they are an incredible animal God has made. God bless

Thanks Edward. Same to you.

Thanks Keith. We had a few things that didn't go our way at the state meet, but it was a very good season overall. We have had plenty of rain this year. Everything is growing really well. Have a great day.

Called around to people who I know that plant food plots and asked if they of any sources. They pointed me toward places they knew about including one seed dealer who had several bags of leftover "sample" seed that they give out to farmers to try. It might take you a couple years to find your sources but as I mentioned, seed companies can't sell it the second year. So any seed left after the selling season they have to find a home for. Often it goes to conservation groups like Pheasants Forever and sometimes even the county DNR offices. I got most of my seed in southern Iowa through the DNR. You just have to start asking around.

In fertilizer lingo that means "units per acre" which translates into pounds of active material per acre. For example, if you want 150 pounds of nitrogen per acre you need 300 pounds of urea per acre since urea is only 50% active nitrogen. It says the % percentage of active right on the bag. I did a short video on this topic last year. Here is the link: ruclips.net/video/SoxooVoe4VQ/видео.htmlsi=WDVqRI--Jf1g6A2Z